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through the desert on a camel with no name.

The idea of caravanning by camel through the Moroccan Sahara at first has hints of romanticism. The Lawrence of Arabia thing. Or perhaps 1001 Arabian Nights. Maybe even Beau Geste...oh that's right, old Beau bought it in the end. But there is definitely that French Foreign Legion air. Okay, they bite the big one often as well. But what the hell, it's a mild 8 day adventure starting in Ouarzazate and finish in Marrakech ... a place that even had a song named after it! 

Arrive in Ouarzazate through Casablanca and stay at Dar Daif, a wonderfully converted kasbah with atmospheric rooms, salons and ancient hammam. It's outside town and the perfect place to rest and prepare for the journey.

Once in Ouarzazate, you meet your tour guides and camels. You'll learn the ins and outs of being a camel jockey.  How to get on. How not to fall off.  How to say, "Egad, this thing stinks!"  How to realize that they are not the friendliest of all beasts (but also not that mean).  And other pertinent stuff like turning stopping, etc.  You'll also learn that the hump is not a water reservoir but a bunch of fat that the camel draws upon when the food gets light.  The more it uses its hump the more it sags to one side.  A couple of square meals and it returns to its upright position.

The first part is getting on and again not falling off.  The camel starts out lying down when you mount it.  Easy enough.  Then it gets up, rear legs first which thrusts you forward rather abruptly.  If you aren't ready then... Steering the camels was no big deal, since they have traversed these parts a trillion times, they really don't need you to tell them where to go.  And that was the key to the caravan, the route is so old and so often used the camels knew the way.

Camels were domesticated thousands of years ago by frankincense traders, who trained the gangly cud-chewer to make the long and arduous journey from southern Arabia to the northern regions of the Middle East. During the Phoenician and Carthaginian Empires, the Trans-Saharan (Sahara means "Desert") trade basically stayed toward the northern regions and didnít venture south toward [what is now] Ghana or other parts of West Africa.

It wasn't until around 750 AD, under the influence of Islamic peoples, northern and western Africans began to use the camel to transport goods across this forbidding terrain. Camels do several things exceptionally well: they can carry unbelievably heavy loads for impossibly long distances and they can keep their footing on sandy terrain. It was as if someone had invented sand ships.

By the 9^th century, the caravans carried salt, gold, slaves and spices from the sub-Sahara Africa to the Mediterranean ports and Middle East. Today, some nomad tradesmen still use the camel caravans for trade, but it is more profitable to use them for tourists. If you are looking for a riding challenge, you wonít find it on these humped beasts.  In fact, once you get on, it is a rather comfortable ride save for the smell.

The second full day it is time to leave on your trusted steed! Following the Draa River, follow along this fertile valley, where lush palmeries secret date palms, olive groves, and citrus trees. Stop outside of Agdz for lunch before continuing on to lively Zagora, which dates from French colonial times. Be sure to stay at the Asmaa Palace Hotel, located at the foot of Jebel Zagora.

You can check out anytime you like but...

On the third day the caravan heads out to M'hamid.   It's on the other side of the Atlas mountains and calls itself, "The place where civilization ends."  Ominous enough. You'll also crash for the last night under a real roof.  The Hotel Du Sahara was a former French Foreign Legion outpost. That said, you now realize why so many Legionaires committed suicide.  It was by far more dignified than staying at this joint. Still, it does have its charms; like a roof. It is from here the odyssey begins - entering the desert.

The Sahara is actually a rather beautiful, though barren piece of real estate.  You will note the subtle changes in color hues from sandy tan to dark tan to reddish tan.  You will also appreciate the change of clothes (if youíre smart) into those worn by the natives.  Ralph Lauren and Armani don't work out here!  Within seconds of your trek the sun immediately begins to fry you.  Carry plenty of SPF 99 sun block.

A sudden and brief sand storm arises

The camel is much hardier than the horse, able to travel hours before resting. Riding camels can easily traverse 100 miles a day. Of course it does smell awful. You relish the evening in your tent and the mint tea, aka, Berber Whiskey.  Another liquid "treat" is camel milk.  It is supposedly more nutritious than cattle milk because its lower in fat.  Female camels are actually bred just for the milk.  After tasting it though, one will appreciate regular cows milk.

An overnight at Zagora, a lush, inhabited oasis known for its delectable dates that grow on palm trees. The weekly market on Sunday in Zagora offers an opportunity to mingle amid the tribes selling a plethora of goods, and to also watch the local action of the donkey market.

The next day, palms again give way to desert. That's when the mirages begin.  Mirages are common, as the sun fries your brain and eyes - well not really, it is merely an illusion of reflected heat.

Just a mirage!

During the course of the caravan, old often meets new.  Land Rovers and trucks have replaced the camel in modern trade caravans.  Still no Dodge Caravans though!

The caravan moves at a surprisingly fast pace; much faster than you might think. Soon the final destination is reach...Marrakech! Time to bid your humped wonder adieu.

Marrakech is not only a fantastic city, it is also a symbol of the Morocco that once was, and which still survives here. The streets of the old and pink city have been too narrow to allow the introduction of cars, and tourists searching for the "real" Morocco have turned the medieval structures of Marrakech into good business. The hordes of tourists that come here all through the year have still not managed to change its character. Actually their high number contribute in a positive way to preserve one of the greatest monuments of the Morocco that once was. And the people of Marrakech love their city even more, and Moroccans all over the country would not let down an opportunity of visiting it. The most worthwhile tourist traps are collected inside a rather small zone, starting in the north with the souqs, continuing through the town square of Jemaa l-Fna with its crowd of storytellers, musicians and the Koutoubia mosque which is visible from practically anywhere in Marrakech. Going beyond this, the Menara gardens- by young Marrakechians considered as the most romantic place in town- is high up on the list. But don't forget to visit one of the many examples of sights left by the many Europeans and Americans who fell so much in love with Marrakech that they erected their palaces and gardens here. Check into the Le Meridien N Fis Hotel, easily the best hotel!

Even the newer Marrakech is red

It is named the "red city" due to its beautiful red walls, which turn crimson at dusk-a magical sight. Djemaa el-Fna square is the focal point of Marrakech. During the day the large, tarmac square seems of no interest accommodating a couple of snake charmers and water sellers, but at night it comes into its own providing entertainment and traditional Moroccan cuisine for the locals and tourists alike. You will be able to find storytellers, jugglers, magicians, henna tattoo artists and much more to keep you amused. You might even encounter local men proving their manhood by slicing their arms! But if youíre looking for somewhere to eat the square is covered with food stalls selling kebabs to sheep's heads (that's right, sheep's head; definitely an acquired taste). You can get a birds-eye view of the commotion by taking a balcony seat in one of the restaurants around the square.

If you have time visit the Moroccan Souqs markets are where you can find some of the highest quality gifts. A guide on your first visit is an option, however part of the experience is getting lost, just keep on the main street and you will always emerge at a landmark.

Palais el-Bad is the most famous palace in Marrakech. It was constructed in 1602 and was filled with riches. Unfortunately it is now mostly ruins, however there are still lots to see and it is definitely worth a visit.

Yes this man is slicing up his arm to prove his manhood.

Stay in Marrakech for a few days or take a local flight to Fez or Rabat to get a feel for the rest of Morocco.  As a word of caution, because of world tensions, steer clear of political gatherings that can erupt. 

There are several companies that offer camel caravans.  One of the better firms is Caravan-Serai out of Seattle. The nice thing about the Moroccan camel caravans is they are surprisingly inexpensive with the greatest expense that of air transportation to Morocco. The easiest airline is Royal Air Maroc though you might be more comfy on British Airways. (Brit Air is also 3 times as expensive.) The best time to go is in the spring and fall months.  If you go in the winter youíll encounter snow in the Atlas Mountains.  Of course you can ski!  But that's another adventure.

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